Then in 1995, a sensor on a Norwegian oil rig captured proof of what Dumont d’Urville had faced: a wave 26 metres tall, more than twice the size of any recorded in the area in the hours before – taller even than the hypothetical waves scientists then believed could only happen once every 10,000 years. For centuries, ships’ disappearances at sea were blamed on pirates or misadventure, and stories of giant waves dismissed as readily as legends of sea monsters.Ī cruise ship, reportedly in waters near Australia, was hit by steep wave so big the crew in the bridge fell as the ship plunged down the trough. As far as the scientists of the 19th century were concerned, what they’d seen was impossible: no wave could reach more than nine metres. Somehow, they made it back to shore, losing just one man on that dangerous crossing of the Indian Ocean in 1826.īut when Dumont d’Urville, known as France’s Captain Cook, and his crew later recounted the tale of the monster wave, no one believed them. On deck, explorer Jules Dumont d’Urville estimated the wave loomed at least 30 metres high – and it was bearing down on his ship the Astrolabe fast. Shoulder – The edge of a breaking wave where there’s less power, but more space for activitiesīanks – A build up of sand on the ocean floor that allows waves to break.It came out of the storm a sudden wall of water as tall as a 10-storey building. Sharky – When the ocean feels like there are potentially sharks around, particularly when it’s overcast and the water is murky Rip – A strong current of water moving directly away from the shore and out to the ocean, cutting through the breaking waves – handy for getting out the back quickly, but don’t get stuck! Set – A group of (usually bigger) waves moving towards the break at onceĬhannel – A section of water between breaks where it’s easier to paddle out These waves can often be found around headlands or quite far from the shore and surrounded by deep water. Reef break – A surfable wave that’s breaking due to an underwater reef or rock shelf. Shore break/Shorey – A wave that’s breaking right on the shoreline which can be tricky to paddle past and epic to surf if you like spinal injuries The break could be caused by a sandbar a little offshore, or by the beach itself Whitewash – The tumbling water of a broken waveīeach break – Surfable waves that are breaking onto a sandy beach. Shark bait ooh ah ahĬrest/Peak/Lip – The tip of a breaking wave *chefs kiss*įat – Waves that have too much water in them and aren’t tipping over to break properly Heaps offies – Strong offshore wind conditionsĬlose Out – When the entire line of a wave breaks all at once, leaving no face to ride on and giving you a huge the back – The area past the broken waves where surfers usually sit. Expect froth from surfers, less froth from waves Offshore – The wind is blowing towards the ocean, rather than the land, allowing the waves to form a bit more before they break. Expect froth from waves, less froth from surfers Onshore – The wind is blowing towards the beach/land, causing the waves to break quicker and become messier. Glassy – When the surface of the water is smooth, clear, and shiiiiny A-frame – A wave that breaks left and right at the same time, share it with a mate!īarrel/Tube/Green Room – When a wave breaks to form a perfect hollow cylinder that folds over a surfer, completely surrounding them in water i.e a surfer’s greatest dreamĬhoppy – When the surface of the water is rough and unevenīackwash – The water that rushes back from the shoreline and meets a breaking wave, sometimes launching you skywardįlat – There’s no swell and no waves around.
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